What is the best/sturdiest wool fabric for military reproduction?

I'm guessing this is more of a question for a tailor, seamstress or free lance designer but maybe someone in charge of theatre costumes could lend some insight.. That being said I'm planning to recreate a military style jacket and I need a high quality, high durability, industrial grade black wool. Something smooth in appearance, not shaggy or wire-y but very thick and sturdy black. What fabric would you say I'm looking for?What is the best/sturdiest wool fabric for military reproduction?Look for wool melton or duffle. For inexpensive but good: http://www.macpheeworkshop.com/ -- click on fabrics, then wool. For really nice: http://hainsworth.co.uk/apparel-fabrics/鈥?/a>